Silas Adler
Designer & Founder of Soulland – Copenhagen
Danish menswear brand Soulland has always impressed us: clear and simple and deeply devoted, on the one hand, to a distinctive Scandinavian aesthetic. On the other hand they always manage to be playful and sporty, enjoying experimenting with patterns, materials, cuts, looks but also presentations and collaborations. Their enthusiasm for off-the-wall projects has even led to the production of an own stamp in partnership with the Danish Post, to a collaboration with Playstation, to a whole collection dedicated to Barbar The Elephant and to a virtual runway presentation via smartphone. Soulland is without doubt one of the few brands that have been taking menswear to a whole new level over the last couple of years, designing collections that are innovative and classic at the same time.
Soulland’s head designer Silas Adler founded Soulland in 2002 when he was only 17. What started as a small brand specialised in printed T-shirts and run by a young, passionate skateboarder without a concept, much expertise or aim, has now grown into the unique menswear brand of today. “With knowledge came a cause and with the cause came the concept,” as Silas once said in an interview. “But my ambitions grew and I wanted to launch a full menswear collection. I had to learn everything from scratch and these things take time. But for me it was the right way and the only way to learn it.”
As a self-taught designer and businessman, as a creative mind who clearly disregards genre boundaries, Silas Adler is our first official Danish supporter. We are very happy to welcome him as a friend of IWISHUSUN.
Soulland stands for modern menswear, but also for experiments regarding the presentation and multidisciplinary collaborations. What is your vision as a creative person for your own work?
Never be secure, never give up and never stop being curious.
What is more important for you, the sense of feel or the sense of sight?
Everything is linked in my life.
Which thing or location in Copenhagen do you love to see everyday?
My home! That’s where my family is.
In Scandinavia the summer solstice is a big celebration – the Danes celebrate Sankt Hans Day on the 23rd of June. What does the sun mean to you?
I’m half Tanzanian so the sun is the god of my forefathers. I’m equally Swedish and the sun is also a god for my Scandinavian forefathers. The sun is light and light is life.
You grew up in Denmark, so you are used to long winters. Do you have a secret remedy that gets you through the dark time of year?
The thing about Danes is that even though we have long winters, we never get used to it. It’s like a collective seven-month depression. We normally use alcohol to get through it.
In your words, what distinguishes life in Copenhagen in winter from summer?
Summer is heaven, winter is hell. And both are important in their way!
Through your label Soulland you travel a lot. Which place and what else would you love to see more often?
New York and Paris. The two true metropolises. New York is the new world and Paris is the old world…
What is your tactic for making the world a better place?
Go by bike instead of a car. Smile instead of not smiling and be active instead of being passive.
When was the last time you gave something back to someone and what did you do?
The person that needs to know, knows..
Who is your personal hero?
David Lynch!
Picture: Sascha Oda.
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Hien Le
Designer – Berlin
Hien Le might have marked summer 2010 as a relevant turning point in his career and path of life: during Berlin Fashion Week 2010 the Berlin based designer launched his own fashion label which was immediately received very well by retail and the international fashion press. One year later he won the third prize of the fashion contest “Start Your Fashion Business,” making his first runway debut and has been nominated as “Best Newcomer” by the international fashion trade magazine Sportswear International.
His designs are clear and simple but never run the risk of being boring – Hien Le formulates crystal-clear purism and sets value on high-qulity materials. He concentrates on discreet cuts and the subtle application of details. As a trained tailor Hien Le consequently maintains his claim to manufacture clothing that combines diligent design with accurate workmanship; everything produced in Germany. We could not imagine Berlin Fashion Week without Hien Le and we are very happy to welcome him as a friend!
Which of the senses are more important, sight or hearing? And why?
Both are very important, but because I am a very visual person, in this case I would go for sight.
You’re a creative person. What vision motivates you in your work?
My daily life; I live and love what I do… otherwise I couldn’t do it. The aim of seeing the collection completed, and all together, is what motivates me. I always look forward to the development and the collection process as a whole.
Where do you get the inspiration for your collections?
That differs from one collection to the next, but it is usually the daily things that surround me all the time…that could be music, art, architecture or film. I find cities and the people who live in them are always very inspiring.
How important are materials for you? What do they mean to you and where do you get them?
Materials are obviously very important for what I do. My collections are very reduced; many details are only noticeable on closer inspection. Colours and materials are what define the collection. I am a very tactile person myself and so I only use materials that I would wear myself or which feel good to the touch. Above all it’s important that they are produced under fair trade conditions. Until now I have only ordered textiles from Europe, mostly from Switzerland and Italy, and for this season for the first time cloth from Australia. I buy all my textiles at trade fairs.
Over the last few seasons the focus of your collections was on monochrome looks. The sharp silhouettes and the feel for high quality materials have remained, but for Spring/Summer 2013 the theme was flamingos and for the Autumn/Winter 2013 collection you introduced striking colour fusions, inspired by Mark Rothko, which both brought colour into your collections. How important is the visual impact that expresses for you and your work?
They are very important. Because everything is very minimal, monochrome and reduced; and one often sees the details only on closer inspection, as I already mentioned. So I can create major impact by relatively simple means, like with the last prints of the two most recent collections. That gives the collection more tension and breaks up the complete monochrome look, whilst still remaining true to my style. Being quite minimalist is an advantage in the sense that I am able to constantly expand on it and introduce new elements without completely transforming it, but remaining within the recognisable “Hien le” signature style.
And privately? What do you prefer? Eye-catchers or more restrained clothing?
More restrained.
What is your tactic for improving the world?
Living in a conscious way; taking pleasure in and valuing the gifts nature has given us. When it comes to my job, I always try to ensure that everything is made under fair trade conditions, whether in the production or the manufacture of the textiles I order.
Who is your personal hero?
My grandfather.
What is the most beautiful thing you have ever seen?
There have been so many beautiful things, but the most recent was a sunset on Bali.
Sunset or sunrise?
Sunrise.
Picture: Micki Rosi Richter.
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Vladimir Karaleev
Designer – Berlin
Vladimir Karaleev is without a doubt one of the most promising names at Berlin Fashion Week. From year to year we watch as he continues to develop, whilst remaining true to himself at the same time: clearly contoured experimental cuts and open hems, asymmetry and drapery, silk and wool dominate his collections, which are strongly influenced by the aesthetic of contemporary art. While his minimalistic styles are distinctive, the Bulgarian designer Karaleev, who is based in Berlin and founded his own fashion label in 2006, never gets tired of experimenting – and we hope he keeps on keeping on!
We are true fans of his designs but Vladimir Karaleev also supports IWISHUSUN. Welcome him as a friend!
What is more important to you, the sense of taste or sight?
It is hard to compare; both are interconnected. What is sight without taste, and taste is somehow based on sight. Both are very important I guess!
You are a creative person. What is your vision for your personal work?
A permanent quest for new ideas through experimentation.
Most of your designs are based on flowing cloth and asymmetry – is this decision a question of visual aesthetic or of emotion? How important is the visual power of your designs?
I think every designer finds their own way of expressing their visual language. I guess mine is based on sometimes less conventional techniques (the starting point of which can sometimes be a very basic pattern). I found it very hard to find a good balance within asymmetrical forms (if you think mathematically, there is no true balance in asymmetry, so you have to somehow compensate aesthetically). I am not really into prints; for me the perfect shape is a precise interplay between fabric, volume and colour: if they can get together without too much of a fight, then you’ve got it!
Silk is probably your most frequently used fabric. How important is the choice of material for you, and what does a fabric like silk transmit from your point of view?
I don’t confine myself to any one fabric. Sometimes silk gives me what I want, in order to achieve the shape I want, but my fabric of choice is wool. I love heavy falling wool crepe. And I mean, fabric is everything, it does transmit and carry the whole structure and shape.
Where do you source your fabrics from?
Mostly Europe, but you never know where they import their fabrics from. I must say, Europeans are not always the best partners, at least compared to Asia, where they have a much better work ethic.
What is your tactic for making the world a better place?
It’s important to take social responsibility and I try to take part in various causes that are close to my heart. Sometimes I feel bad because I don’t have more time, since our world is full of problems. As an entrepreneur I try to be as environmentally friendly as possible, to make my products sustainable without wasting too many resources - I do worry about that. Giving back is not a one-time act; it has to be a way of life and if more people lived that way, it would be much easier to solve many of our problems…
What is the most beautiful thing you ever saw?
I don’t know. I am not impressed by “beautiful”.
What would you like to see more often?
Understanding between people, tolerance, people listening to each other. In general, we are the problem and the solution: but currently it seems we have too many problems, and I’d like to see more solutions.
Sunrise or sunset – which do you prefer?
Sunrise, it’s a new day.
Pic: Dirk Merten.
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Leyla Piedayesh
Founder of lala Berlin – Berlin
It’s almost 10 years ago that Leyla Piedayesh has founded her label lala Berlin. After resigning from her job as an editor at the music station MTV, a new period of her life began with a simple find at a flea market: knitted wristlets. She began to knit some herself and shortly thereafter lala Berlin was born – a label that has turned knitwear fashions inside out, that is characterised by noticeable combinations of cashmere, baby mohair and silk and that turned Leyla Piedayesh into one of Germany’s most famous and successful designers. Needless to say that we didn’t want to miss her clothes in our wardrobes, but we found a supporter in Leyla Piedayesh as well. Welcome!
Which sense is more important to you, touch or sight?
If I really had to decide – sight is more important to me personally.
Why?
I am an extremely visual person – I love the power and the significance of colours for example. And you simply can’t touch colours. Colours have a special meaning to me and are not only incredibly important in my work, but also for me personally.
You’re a creative person. What vision motivates you in your work?
The creation of new things and turning new ideas into reality. Creating something new that has never existed before in that way. It is not just the one vision, but every season there is always new inspiration and a new vision to go with it. It’s exactly that constant variety that I like; that is my driving force. Of course an overarching theme is the vision of lala Berlin – creating a look that is modern but also cool and relaxed and representative of Berlin.
As well as some monochrome looks your collection is defined mainly by striking colours and eye-catching prints. How important is the visual power that exudes, for you and your work?
There is a definite focus to every collection – also in terms of colour. I have a whole load of fun playing with colours and prints. But I do try to create new effects by working with colour contrasts or unexpected colour combinations. Striking, in part eccentric colours and expressive prints have simply become the trademarks of lala Berlin.
And privately? Do you prefer eye-catchers or a more restrained look?
In private I prefer mainly to wear my own collections – but I style them in my own personal way. I don’t like styling that’s too obvious, but on the other hand an extremely minimalist look is not my thing either. In brief: I go for restrained eye-catchers.
How and where do you find the inspiration for new motifs and patterns?
That depends: for example I get a lot of inspiration from my direct environment. The city in which I live and work is an important source. My young daughter also inspires me a lot with her ideas and preferences. Children can really fire up your imagination with their carefree ways. But often inspiration comes quite by chance.
Knits and silks are to a certain extent constants in your collection, in terms of material choices. Where and how do you find your materials?
At various textile trade fairs. There I can allow myself to be inspired by the most varied materials, nations and people. Of course I love to discover new things, unusual things and soak up the inspiration.
When did you last give something back and how?
There should be give and take in all our actions, starting with my daughter down to my co-workers. It shouldn’t really be necessary to think about it. It’s a done deal – everything is give and take.
What is your tactic to improve the world we live in?
Having a consciousness. About what we do, and what we consume. I may not be able to change the whole world like that, but it’s a step in the right direction.
What is the most beautiful thing you have ever seen?
My daughter – of course.
What would you like to see more of?
Happy laughing people around me, who don’t have a beef with everything and everyone.
Having a good mood simply motivates, and it’s contagious: high spirits should be part of every day life, not just privately, but at work as well.
Sunrise or sunset?
Sunset.
Photo: Peter Rigaud.
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